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 Like our previous overseas travel (Tuscany 2002), no doubt of the enrichment factor provided by the core cycling tour around which the trip was planned.   Once again, we opted for a high-end experienced outfit with inclusive package tours and individual options (including self-guided with luggage transfer).  We chose CycleWest Ireland (www.cyclewest.com) operated by Fidelma Ray, who combines a passion of Ireland and biking with a caring touch for individual attention and a desire to bathe her guests in the regional jewels of her homeland

  Our cycling guide Patsy (short for Patrick) was both informative and entertaining, with a bike racing background and magnetic personality.  Part of the entertainment was “translating” Patsy’s Northern Irish accent and unfamiliar phrasing of the English language - Stoker and I would often team up to pick out key words and conversationally repeat back the information.   Patsy has the rare combination in guiding - taking time and energy to encourage and assist less-experienced cyclists along the way, while picking other opportunities to stir the juices in more advanced participants, leading us on optional excursions with bonus rewards.  We shared the group experience with three other engaging couples, one with a 19-year-old son with junior racing background.  All were pleasant and supportive travel companions on and off the road.

 In contrast to Italy and many other European regions, cycling as a primary mode of transportation in Irish culture has not carried over into popular recreational cycling; instead being nearly completely replaced by motor vehicles.   Neither is it hardly recognized as sport.   However, the pavement and people (and sheep) are fully pleased to share their roads with visitors who tour on two wheels.  The novelty factor was often a conversation starter, and the tandem added onboard bonus capabilities including photography, navigation, and snack serving by my bell-ringing Stoker. 

The 2004 Cannondale Mountain Tandem was selected by Fidelma to complement her fleet of Gary Fisher hybrids, all perfectly suited for the mostly backroad routes.  The roads service all varieties of two-way traffic and vary in width of pavement and buffering foliage.   We encountered everything from super-sized tour coaches to minicars, farm equipment to flocks of sheep, Harleys to pedestrians - all encounters were friendly and safe - although Stoker will admit to a few white knuckles in our travels in a midget Mercedes car for hire, when the sum of the widths of our car and the approaching coach was calculated to exceed the total width of roadway.  Our cycling roads were generally much less traveled than the roads we drove, and all our travels benefited from avoiding peak tourist season (June - August).

 Back to the amazing bike - stock aluminum Cannondale Mountain Tandem with 26” wheels, knobbie tires swapped out for low-profile tread (2.25 inch).  Otherwise stock setup with front/rear disc brakes (great), Shimano triple (22/32/44) 9 speed (11-34), finger/thumb trigger shifters, stoker suspension seatpost, and accessorized with front bar mount and rear rack mount gear bags and stoker map holder.  We added a stoker signaling bell.  We adjusted very quickly to the bike, affixing our SPD pedals and stoker saddle - and constantly enjoyed the nimble performance, bonus standover clearance, and reserve traction for occasional spotty gravel.  Our mirrors were useful, but cycling (and driving) on the left was never an issue.
 Our weather was great, if not entirely typical.  Only full day of rain/drizzle came on a car day after the tour.   Otherwise, occasional overnight precipitation yielded to clearing conditions during breakfast and typical days featured blue skies dotted with puffball clouds pushed by mild breezes and temps in the 60s (F).  Just enough extra weather (spit of rain, dark cloud formations and persistent wind) to add a little flavor.  Speaking of flavor, our breakfast and dinner meals (included in package) and service were excellent and accommodations were social and comfortable.  Pubs were most plentiful and contained resources of food, brew, and conversation (or information, if in need).  The Ballinahinch Castle Hotel was idyllic (and yes romantic).
 Each day of the tour was filled with Irish treats - encounters in traditional staples of farming and wool production, music making, and medieval forts and castles; and eye-pleasing landscapes like the Cliffs of Moher - punctuated with villages of old-world charm augmented by new-age progress.  Most vivid image of cultural shift was the sight of an elderly Irishman on the “old world” Aran Island, in his horse-drawn cart for hire with cell phone held to ear and conversing to the wind (see photo below).

 On the final two riding days, we took options to extend and elevate the route.  We took the Sheeffry Pass challenge (popular training and race route) with Patsy and young Riley, and navigated two 700 ft climbs accented with grand views and separated by a descent and valley traverse.  The second climb was Alicante/Fuerte-like, with sections of ever-increasing pitch and legs questioning the decision.  But Stoker delivered and tandem arose to grant more fields of green.  The final day offered more climbing and rollers for tandem delight, as we managed to outrun the ride-ending sweep vehicle, with a final off-route excursion.  With apologies to Fidelma and Patsy (it was entirely unintentional - must have been the Bulmers cider at O’Toole’s) but so was it fun, as was the entire fortnight!

Tour Details: Cycling:  10 day tour (includes arrival and departure days), 7 riding days with one non-riding intermission; 317 miles; key route points - Shannon (entry/departure airport), Ballyvaghan, Inishmore (Aran Island), Roundstone, Clifden, Leenane, Westport, Galway City.

Extended Stay: 3 days, 550 miles to Kinsale, Dingle and other points in the southwest. (Organized by CycleWest Ireland).

Lodging: Guesthouses, B&Bs; Castle Hotel and other upgrades available.  See CycleWest Ireland's
West Coast Extravaganza for more details and itinerary.

"I have been telling everyone who will listen to me just how wonderful an experience my Ireland trip was.  My pictures are developed and I carry them with me all the time. I can honestly say it was the best vacation I have ever had. The sights, the people, the accommodations and even the challenge made for a very fulfilling experience. You have really done an excellent job in developing this program.  I would do it again in a heartbeat"

Peter D'Amico, Raleigh, NC

"We would like to thank you wholeheartedly for helping our experience in Ireland to be better than we'd ever expected!  Not only were you so hospitable to us by sharing so many beautiful sites of your "homeland", but your attention to detail, your recommendations of places to eat and visit were all superb."

Andrew and Kimmellin Hull, Pennsylvania

"You are such gracious hosts. All the arrangements worked out beautifully. I felt very safe and cared for every moment.   You are experts at your specialty"

Lynne Sonntag, Phoenix

"...a great cycling trip.  The tour was fantastic - a great mix of scenery, Irish history, folklore and pubs! Our Irish honeymoon was very memorable".

Marianne Ritzmann  &  Owen Gray,
San Francisco

"10 out 10"

Andrew Rogers, Brevard, NC

"The biking vacation I took to Ireland was, by far, the best vacation I have ever had."  Thank you, Fidelma.I hope that someday I might get an opportunity to take another bike tour in Ireland.  If I do it will be with the best - Cycle West! "

Dan Lanigan, Ohio

"...we are still reveling in memories of our wonderful trip.  Each one of us loved it and as a shared family experience it was really special.  .. you took such good care of us.  I have been recommending your trip to friends and family - you do an incredible job"

Tracy Pennoyer & Family, Connecticut

"We enjoyed a wonderful experience, relishing the magnificent terrain and welcoming spirit of its people"

Al Goldberg, Connecticut

"I want to thank you, Fidelma, for giving us the best honeymoon I ever could have imagined.  In my wildest dreams I never knew that I would get to have an experience like that, and it will always be such a wonderful memory for me"

Carolyn Starck& Steve, Craig, Colorado

"My father and I had a wonderful time.  The cycling was adventurous.  I particularly enjoyed cycling on the tiny roads of Connemara---where sheep seem to be the only road traffic in many places.  Your knowledge of the region combined with your dedication to all the details of our trip enabled me to learn about the region, enjoy its beauty and cycle without a worry"

Brian Goldberg, Connecticut

"Thank you for a wonderful trip. It exceeded my expectations"

Susan Baer, NY..."I have decided that Ireland is my favorite place on Earth!  I can't tell you how much I enjoyed the bike tour. It was so beautiful and amazing!  I really want to go again".
  Kelly Christensen, Colorado

"We all had a wonderful time – everything we expected plus beautiful weather!  The scenery was grand, the villages, people, and pubs delightful, and the routes you selected for us were ideal"

Jim Sullivan & Family, Arlington, VT

"We had such a wonderful time!    It was one of our best family vacations.  It was so nice to be together, and to be outside on bicycles.  The kids would have been bored silly if they were on a tour bus the entire time.   Being on a bicycle is so liberating, and just so much fun.  And Patsy and Elizabeth were just the most amazing guides. Hopefully more families will do this, when they realize just how fantastic it is! "

Kathleen & Patrick Eaton Robb, Connecticut

"We want to thank you for helping us to have a wonderful trip. We loved the cycling, the views as well as the lovely places to stay and dine"

Jay & Kappa Meadows

"My favourite day was the cycle from Leenane to Westport, seeing the mountains and fresh water lakes, plus the traffic was very low...."

Michael Lewis,Ohio